Vietnamese banh mi (bánh mì) is a popular and delicious sandwich that
has gained recognition on the global culinary map. It has an interesting
history and a wide range of variations. Let's dive into the world of banh mi:
In September 2022, the banh mi was officially added to the
Merriam-Webster dictionary. Around the same time, CNN travel included the banh
mi in the top 23 of the world’s best sandwiches, reflecting its popularity and
reputation. Although available worldwide, eating the Vietnamese sandwich in its
hometown is something you cannot miss.
Banh mi is a culinary creation that evolved in Vietnam over
the past two centuries. It originated from the influence of French colonization
when baguettes, known as "Western bread" at the time, were introduced
to Vietnam. Through a fusion of French and Vietnamese flavors, techniques, and ingredients,
banh mi emerged as a unique and iconic Vietnamese sandwich.
Many Vietnamese historical records cited that the
breadsticks, or baguettes, traveled with the French expeditionary force to
Vietnam in the 1850s. The ready-baked baguettes, which are the main staple food
of the French, were certainly not enough to feed all the soldiers for months at
sea; hence, baguettes were probably made on-site wherever the troops settled.
Why is it called the banh mi?
When baguettes first appeared in the North, they were
referred to as “Western bread” since, obviously, they were made for the French
people. However, in the South, back then, people already called the French
baguettes by the name banh mi. One explanation is that, in Vietnamese, “banh” refers
to any food made from flour, especially by baking, and “mi” is the
shortened form of bot mi (bột mì) – or wheat flour. So, banh mi literally
means a cake made from wheat flour. Another hypothesis is that the banh mi
resembles the sound of “Pain de mie,” which means white bread in French.
Regardless of the reason behind this, the banh mi is now a universally official
name for this Vietnamese baguette.
When did the Vietnamese banh mi get its shape?
It is a long journey for the banh mi to come from long,
thin, and crusty baguettes to the Vietnamese bread you see today.
When first arrived, the banh mi was a classic French
baguette – a long, narrow loaf of bread, and was only eaten at a dining table
in Western style. The first attempt to make it was with brick ovens, built in
the traditional French style and heated by coal or wood (much resembles pizza
wood ovens).
In the 1910s, when World War I broke out, food scarcity
happened worldwide. Local bakers had to make changes to the recipes by adding
rice flour to make up for the shortage of wheat flour. Adding to that, the way
Vietnamese bakers constructed their ovens with local building materials allowed
the moisture to stay inside longer. The mixture of wheat and rice flour and the
sealed structure of the baking ovens resulted in a softer and airier texture
inside while thinner and crustier outside the banh mi.
Following the economic recession, the banh mi was first cut
into smaller pieces and then made shorter and smaller to lower the price and to
be ready to eat on the way. This significantly marked the transformation in the
shape of banh mi, retaining its appearance until the modern days.
How the banh mi became loved by the Vietnamese?
You may expect it or not, in the 19th century, when the banh
mi first arrived during the high time of French colonialism, it was boycotted
by the Vietnamese patriots and consumed mostly by the French, Vietnamese upper
classes, and people working in the French governing body.
In the early 20th century, the banh mi adverts appeared for
the first time in newspapers and flyers, spreading their popularity among
locals. French bakeries made their way further south to My Tho, Ben Tre, and
all the way to Can Tho. Although the banh mi at this time was still a “luxury”
good, it was no longer an “exotic” food in the local’s eyes. It was made in
larger quantities and always available to be bought freshly.
In the early 1930s, together with the growing familiarity,
the banh mi also became more affordable for ordinary people. They were no
longer just a staple to serve with French omelets on a dining table with forks
and knives, but more a takeaway snack or a dry treat on long trips.
In the 2000s, when Saigon underwent explosive development, people
from far-flung corners of Vietnam flocked to this city, which was praised as
the “Pearl of the Far East,” to gaze at it in wonder. One of the intimate
images of the banh mi at that time still engraved in our minds is the bamboo
basket stacked with hot, crispy bread covered under a large sack. These baskets
could be seen tied on the back of a street vendor’s bicycle, placed on the
sidewalks, or lined up in front of the bus stations – where they were sought
after as a Saigon specialty for souvenirs. Every time the sack was lifted off,
the buttery and warm fragrance of hot, fresh banh mi filled the air, and no one
could resist but eat the bread right away without any side dishes or toppings.
Eating “banh mi khong,” hence, became a huge part of Vietnamese banh mi
culture.
In our childhood memory, whenever there was someone in our
little town traveling to Saigon, the villagers, from children to seniors, could
not hide the excitement of receiving banh mi Saigon as gifts. We sat
together while our parents tore it into pieces and distributed them to us,
excited kids. That’s what we’ve grown up with and how the banh mi became
indispensable in our life.
So, after two centuries of presence and integration, the
banh mi has made its way into Vietnamese people’s lives and become a part of
our regular diet, something we cannot live without.
The banh mi ingredients
Eating the banh mi is truly an exciting culinary experience.
The incredible combination of crispy bread, soft cold cuts and meat, crunchy
pickles, and fresh herbs will take you through different layers of the sense of
taste. A typical loaf of banh mi consists of the ingredients listed below for
reference:
1. Banh mi bread: Made from high hydration dough and high
protein flour, which creates a perfectly light and soft bread with a
beautifully caramelized crispy crust.
2. Butter: Made by beating egg yolks with cooking oil, lime
juice, salt, and sugar. It has a melted butter texture but is creamier in
taste.
3. Pâté: Made from pork liver. The finished pâté is smooth in
texture and extremely rich in flavor.
4. Vietnamese cold cuts: This could have its own section; however, the most popular cold cut used in the banh mi is “cha lua” – a Vietnamese pork sausage roll. It consists of well-seasoned ground pork wrapped in banana leaves in the shape of a sausage roll and boiled until fully cooked. Another common option is the Vietnamese jambon, also known as red cold cuts (thit nguoi do). This includes lean pork and pork skin seasoned with black pepper, wrapped in a piece of pork skin and steamed until well cooked.
5. Pickles and vegetables: Usually include pickled carrot and
white daikon julienne cuts, combined with sliced cucumber, fresh coriander,
green onions, and fresh chilies.
6. Sauce: Soy sauce and homemade tomato sauce are usually the
final touch for a loaf of banh mi.
The ingredients are added in the order mentioned, and they
will surprise and satisfy you with their perfect blend of textures – crispy,
crunchy, and soft – and how their tastes complement each other so perfectly.
Most of the ingredients are homemade, so despite being made from the same
ingredients, the banh mi tastes vary from vendor to vendor, making it a unique
experience every time you try it.
Types of the banh mi
There are countless variations of the banh mi categorized by
fillings that vary widely and uniquely across regions, with just the banh mi
loaf as the main ingredient. Now, let’s travel southwards and take a look at
six popular and iconic versions of this sandwich that have greatly contributed
to putting it on the global cuisine map.
Banh mi chao Hanoi
In Hanoi, one of the most
popular ways to eat the banh mi is to serve it with a small pan of sizzling hot
toppings, which explains the name banh mi chao. This is thought to be
inherited from the French eating culture, with the banh mi and toppings served
separately and eaten with a knife and fork.
So what is in the pan? First of all, pâté, a lot of pâté,
silky-smooth and rich pâté. Then, some French fries, a sunny-side-up egg,
Vietnamese ham, and sausage are traditionally a must, sided with sliced
cucumber and finally topped with green onions and coriander. The options go on
forever with the personal touch of the chef. However, the secret of this combo
lies within the flavorful and iconic sauce in which all the ingredients are
cooked. It is basically tomato sauce, but well-seasoned (sometimes with some
wine) according to the Hanoian palate, that really wakes up your appetite.
Banh mi bot loc Da Nang
You will be surprised to find out what this banh mi is
about. Besides its beautiful long-stretching coastline, Da Nang is famous
for banh bot loc – clear tapioca shrimp and pork dumplings. Savory
shrimp and pork belly are covered in translucent, soft, and chewy dumpling skin
and eaten with sweet and spicy fish sauce. We love the banh mi, and we
love banh bot loc, so why not merge them together? And there, we
have banh mi bot loc: baby dumplings are stuffed in a banh mi, with some
greens and chili paste added. You can expect crispy bread outside and a
surprisingly good explosion of tastes inside.
Banh mi cha ca Nha Trang
Being known for its abundant source of seafood, Nha Trang takes
advantage of their specialty, which is fish cakes, and adds it to the
availability of the banh mi to create a tasteful and iconic sandwich. The
highlight of this version is obviously the fish cakes which are often made from
mackerel fillets. Minced fish is shaped into pies before being deep-fried until
they get the shiny caramelized color. Fish cakes are then cut into bite-size
cuboids and stuffed in the banh mi with cucumber, green onions, lots of crispy
fried shallot, and chili paste. The sandwich, with its texture from the land
and fish cakes with the scent of the sea, would be an unforgettable cuisine
experience.
Banh mi Hoi An
For most visitors, when it comes to the Vietnamese
sandwich, banh mi Hoi An probably the first one that springs to their
mind. It was featured on national Korean TV shows and by many well-known food
reviewers and famous figures. But its popularity is well-deserved. The most
important element of a good sandwich is, of course, the banh mi itself.
In Hoi An, the
banh mi is marked with a unique shape, smaller and pointier on the two sides
compared to other parts of the country. They are always freshly baked, so the
crust outside is super crispy while the inside remains moist and soft.
It is commented that banh mi Hoi An is outstanding
thanks to the diverse fillings, ranging from homemade garlic puree and barbeque
pork to something distinguished like tuna. The fillings are a well-balanced
combination of tender and juicy meat, fresh and crunchy green papaya and veggies,
and a hint of spiciness and sweetness from the chili paste, which is Hoi An’s
specialty. We’re sure you won’t have enough of it.
Banh mi thit nuong Saigon
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
locals have a love for thit nuong, or chargrilled pork of any kind. From
grilled pork with broken rice (com tam thit nuong) and grilled pork
with rice vermicelli (bun thit nuong) to grilled pork with sticky
rice (xoi thit nuong), it’s no surprise that banh mi thit nuong (grilled
pork stuffed in the banh mi) has made its way to the list.
Minced pork is marinated with a mixture of lemongrass,
honey, and other seasonings. It’s then formed into meatballs or rolled around
bamboo sticks, then chargrilled until the smoky aroma from the lemongrass fills
the air and the pork remains juicy and moist from the steaming pork fat. The
chargrilled pork is then stuffed in a banh mi, along with pickled carrots and
daikon, fresh cucumber, coriander, and a drizzle of BBQ sauce.
Banh mi xiu mai Dalat
Dalat has
become a sought-after holiday destination, not only for locals but also for
world travelers, and its highland culinary delights play a huge role in its
growing popularity. Within the Vietnamese community, banh mi xiu mai is
a must-try, proof that one has been to Dalat. It is not a typical banh mi
filled with fillings. Xiu mai are small meatballs made from minced
pork and wood-ear mushrooms. In the misty and chilly weather, there’s nothing
better than fresh banh mi served with a small bowl of xiu mai, chewy pork
skin, steamed pork sausages, and topped with coriander. The warmth of the xiu
mai soup and the heat from the added minced chilies are probably what
sets banh mi xiu mai apart. When eating, we tear the banh mi into
small pieces and dip them in the xiu mai soup, complementing it with
bits of meatballs.
The meatballs are completely homemade by the lady owners using their own recipes, so they vary from vendor to vendor, making the experience more personal and unique. And don’t forget to get hot soy milk.
The eating culture of the banh mi
Best drink to pair with the banh mi: Since the sandwich is a
bit dry, it’s ideal to have a drink on its side. The banh mi is best combined
with an iced black coffee or milk coffee (ca phe den da or ca phe sua da).
This is also the iconic and classic Vietnamese breakfast combo.
The go-to option: Just like other Vietnamese Dishes, a broad range of banh mi toppings can be overwhelming and leave you
confused about which one to go for. A thap cam – mixed combo – will
be a good place to start. It comes with everything the dish offers, so you can
have a full picture of what the dish is like and pick out your favorite
toppings for the next order.
When to eat: The banh mi is typically eaten in the morning
for breakfast due to its filling quality and portability. It is a perfect
energy boost, fueling you for a long exploring day. However, feel free to have
it for lunch or dinner or at any time you would like to. Personally, we love
this sandwich so much that we can eat it every day for several days in a row.
The banh mi as a sweet treat: If you ask any Vietnamese,
they will tell you about the pleasure of dipping the banh mi in condensed milk
and eating it straight. It may sound strange, but the sweet, creamy milk
somehow just blends perfectly with the banh mi texture, making it such a
satisfying combo that we are privileged to grow up with. Apart from eating with
condensed milk, you can also find air-dried banh mi coated with white sugar,
which is super crispy and fun to eat.
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